The climate of the Salish Sea region is unusual. Whereas most of the world receives its rainfall during the warmer part of the year, the Pacific Northwest receives most of its precipitation during the winter. Our rainfall pattern ensures abundant water from fall through spring. Water becomes a precious commodity in the summer when our wet weather gives way to beautiful sunny days and increasingly common droughts. Most yards here need to be watered in the summer to stay green.
Thurston County’s average water use triples during the summer. Up to 70 percent of the average summertime water bill is for outdoor use. Over-watering wastes this precious resource, and it is the leading cause of disease and insect problems for plants. Further, it also washes fertilizers and other pollutants into local waterways via storm drains.
Landscaping Tips
Saving water on your lawn is simple. All you have to do is turn your hose off more frequently. There are a variety of techniques that can help make that more possible without giving up your greenspace. Everyone’s lawn is different, so some things may be more important/useful for you specifically, while others may not make as much sense for your situation. One way or the other though, conserving water puts less strain on our precious water resources and saves you money!
1. Planning and Design
Take note of existing microclimates of your landscape, including amount of sun, shade, soil type and moisture. Make sure you have picked the right plant for the right place. As an example, plants that require a lot of water should be planted in moist areas where they will naturally receive the water they need. On the other end of the spectrum, plants that don’t require a lot of water should be planted in dry areas. This concept is known as hydro zoning because you are creating zones in your landscape that require different amounts of water.
2. Soil Improvement
The structure of your soil will determine its water holding capacity. Clay soils will hold water for longer periods of time, whereas water will run through sandy soils rather quickly. To determine your soil type, you can obtain a soil test from the Thurston Conservation District.
Then make amendments as suggested. Without getting a soil test, it is generally beneficial to mix compost to a depth of 10-12 inches of the soil in planting beds. This will improve soil structure and water holding capacity.
3. Practical Turf Area
Lawns are traditionally the receptors of large amounts of water in the summer, but there are several techniques that can be employed to greatly reduce water requirements for lawns. The first technique is to minimize lawn area to places where you need it, for instance, a play area. Lawns will need to be watered through the summer to stay green, so replacing as much area as possible with native plants that require far less water will help lower water consumption. Second, mulch mowing and mowing high will reduce your lawn’s watering needs. Taller grass also cools the soil and encourages deep roots. Mow to no less than two inches and don’t rake the clippings for best results. Third, consider letting your lawn go dormant during the summer. Dormancy can be achieved by watering deeply once a month. When the fall rains begin, your lawn will soon be its usual lush green.
4. Efficient Irrigation
Early morning is the best time to water your lawn because that is when evaporation is at its lowest. Nighttime is also good for the same reason. Generally, you are looking for times when it is cooler and there is less direct sunlight on your lawn.
Watering deeply and infrequently is the best technique to promote healthy lawns. This means soaking the soil and then only watering again when the soil is dry about 2” deep for lawns and annuals or 4” deep for shrubs and trees. Soil moisture meters can help you tell how deeply your water has percolated. Alternatively, you can stick a trowel in the ground to see how far the water has reached. Watering deeply and infrequently saves water and helps plant roots to grow deeper in search of water. Watering too frequently can cause roots to suffocate because the soil’s air spaces will remain waterlogged. This excessive watering ultimately leads to disease as the plants become increasingly stressed from lack of air.
Create an irrigation schedule. You’ll likely find that once a week in the summer is plenty (even less for shady sites). It is important to remember that your lawn only needs 1” of water per week in the summer months. This can easily be measured by placing small cans (a tuna can is 1 inch deep) around the lawn and turning on the sprinkler. Record how long it takes for the can to fill 1 inch. Remember that grass does best if the roots are allowed to dry out a little between watering. Your lawn will let you know when it needs a drink by not springing back after you step on it.
Finally, let the weather help you out. If you use automatic sprinklers, turn them off or adjust them when it rains or cools off. You will have a better idea of how much water your lawns need if you use a rain gauge to track precipitation in your lawn. Nature has its ways of helping you save water if you know how to work with it!
5. Mulch plant beds
Mulching around plants reduces evaporation from the soil and helps maintain the soil structure by protecting the soil from rain. This allows the soil to continually soak up water because it remains spongy and porous, rather than becoming compressed from the rain.
Two to four inches of mulch around plants will help retain soil moisture and provide nutrients as it breaks down over time. Mulch also reduces the competition for water between plants and weeds as it suppresses weed growth.
To calculate the amount of mulch you need for your area, you can visit LandscapeCalculator.com.
6. Low Water-Use Plants
All native plants have adapted to thrive in the wet, mild winters and dry summers of the Pacific Northwest. Native plants are adapted to our climate, diseases, and pests; and therefore, require less maintenance and care compared to non-native plants. However, there are also non-native species, such as lilac, that are recommended for our temperate climate, are non-invasive and are drought tolerant. When choosing plants, look for plants adapted to Zone 8 of the hardiness zone map. The Plant List from SavingWater.org are useful resources for finding low water use plants.
7. Efficient Maintenance
When designed appropriately, a mature water wise landscape should require far less maintenance than one that disregards the water requirements of plants. Watering will need to be consistent through the first three growing seasons but can taper off as the plants establish themselves in their environment. Most native/drought resistant plants do not need to be watered after they are well established (usually 2-3 years). Watering after the first few years should occur only when the plants begin to wilt and show signs of water stress.
Other Tricks to Save Water
Concrete won’t grow. Adjust sprinklers and hoses so that driveways, sidewalks and streets don’t get watered. Avoid watering on windy days.
Slow the flow. Garden hoses can deliver over 10 gallons of water per minute. Use a bucket and automatic shut-off nozzle when washing your car. Use a broom and dustpan instead of a hose to clean sidewalks and driveways.
Let rain do the work. If you use an automatic irrigation system, install a rain sensor to shut off your system when it rains. Adjust irrigation timers to match seasonal wet and dry patterns.
Time your plantings. Wait until fall to plant new lawns and ornamental plants. New plantings require more watering than established plantings.
Be a leak seeker. Check for and fix leaks in outdoor faucets, sprinklers, hoses and couplings. Often, all you need is a new hose seal, which are very inexpensive at any lawn and garden store, or many local water utilities even offer them for free!
Be creative. Wash large household items, such as cars or patio chairs, on the lawn. Drain fish tanks to the lawn or landscaping when cleaning the tank. Sprinkle left-over ice from a party on plants. Bathe your dog on the lawn!